What to do in Rome: neighborhoods, trattorias, and aperitivo

Rome cannot be visited in a single trip. You keep coming back, and with each stay, the city reveals something new: a church opened by chance, a trattoria where no one speaks English, a fountain you had never noticed before. Between two ruins, you eat very well and have an aperitivo in squares that have existed since the Renaissance. It is this mix that inspired the Beauséjour Rome collection. So, what should you do in Rome without spending your days in queues? Here are our addresses, neighborhood by neighborhood, with no fluff.

Opening hours and days change according to the season: check before you go.

Neighborhoods to explore

Trastevere — the far bank

On the other side of the Tiber: cobblestone alleys, ivy on ochre facades, laundry hanging between windows. Enter Santa Maria in Trastevere for the golden mosaics in the apse, then lose yourself toward Piazza di San Cosimato, where a market is held in the morning. The neighborhood is very busy at night. Come in the morning too; it belongs to the locals.

Monti — the village behind the Colosseum

Five minutes from the Forums, yet a different atmosphere. Via del Boschetto and Via Urbana are lined with thrift stores, small boutiques, and workshops. At the center is Piazza della Madonna dei Monti and its fountain, where the whole neighborhood sits at the end of the day with a beer or coffee. It’s the perfect base for sleeping near the monuments without living in the middle of tour buses.

Testaccio — the Rome that eats

A former working-class and slaughterhouse district, south of the Aventine. People come here for the trattorias, the covered market with its street food stalls, and Monte Testaccio, a hill made of broken Roman amphorae. Nearby, the non-Catholic cemetery, quiet and full of cats, houses the graves of Keats and Shelley in the shade of the Pyramid of Cestius.

The Aventine — the keyhole and the orange trees

A residential hill above Testaccio. The Giardino degli Aranci offers a terrace overlooking the rooftops and domes—free, amidst orange trees. A hundred meters away, at Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta, press your eye to the keyhole of a green door: the dome of St. Peter's appears, perfectly framed. There is often a short line. It moves quickly.

The Ghetto and Campo de' Fiori — the center on foot

The Campo de' Fiori market in the morning, then the Jewish Ghetto two streets away, with the Portico of Octavia and its Jewish-style fried artichokes served in local trattorias. This is the most vibrant part of the historic center, and you can walk across it from the Pantheon to the Tiber in twenty minutes.

What to do in Rome: the great classics, well organized

Colosseum and Roman Forum — book ahead, really

Tickets are nominative and must be booked on the official website of the Colosseum Archaeological Park. One ticket gives access to the Colosseum, the Forum, and the Palatine. Start with the Palatine, which is shadier, and save the Colosseum for last. Bring a hat and a water bottle in summer; there is almost no shade.

The Pantheon — admission is now paid

Since 2023, there is an entrance fee. Book a time slot online on weekends. Inside, look up at the oculus, which has been open to the sky for two thousand years. On rainy days, you can see the water falling into the center of the rotunda.

Trevi Fountain — early, or not at all

Since February 2026, access to the edge of the fountain basin is restricted and requires a ticket, following rules published by the City of Rome. The real advice remains the same: go first thing in the morning. By 10:00 AM, the square is packed.

Borghese Gallery — Bernini up close

Located in the villa of the same name, in the middle of the large park. Bernini's Apollo and Daphne, the marble skin turning into bark. Reservation is mandatory and time slots go quickly: book them as soon as your travel dates are set. After the visit, walk through the gardens to the Pincio for the view over Piazza del Popolo.

The Vatican — an entire morning

Vatican Museums, Sistine Chapel, then St. Peter's Basilica. Book the museums online, arrive at opening time, and plan to do a lot of walking. For lunch afterward, Pizzarium is a ten-minute walk away.

Where to eat in Rome: trattorias and pizza

Da Enzo al 29 — the Trastevere trattoria

Via dei Vascellari, on the quiet side of Trastevere. Small dining room, a few tables outside, and the Roman classics: carbonara, amatriciana, seasonal artichokes. There is almost always a line. Arrive before they open and arm yourself with patience.

Felice a Testaccio — cacio e pepe tossed at the table

Via Mastro Giorgio. A neighborhood institution for decades. The waiter finishes the cacio e pepe right in front of you—pecorino and black pepper, tossing the tonnarelli in the plate. Book ahead, especially on weekends.

Flavio al Velavevodetto — dinner in a hill of amphorae

Built against Monte Testaccio: through a glass wall, you can see the shards of ancient amphorae piled up. Straightforward Roman cuisine and a pleasant terrace when the weather is nice. Perfect after a walk around the neighborhood.

Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina — the deli where you dine

Via dei Giubbonari, between Campo de' Fiori and the ghetto. Hams, cheeses, a huge wine cellar, and a carbonara that is much talked about in Rome. Book several days in advance. In the morning, Antico Forno Roscioli, right nearby, sells pizza bianca while it's still warm.

Armando al Pantheon — family-run since 1961

A few meters from the Pantheon, a wood-paneled room where the same family has served Roman cuisine for over sixty years. Tripe, offal, pasta of the day. Tables are booked long in advance: don't count on a spontaneous visit.

Pizzarium, Trapizzino, Da Remo — pizza in all its forms

Pizzarium, near the Vatican: pizza al taglio by weight, thick and crispy crust, you eat standing up. Trapizzino, born in Testaccio and now also in Trastevere: a triangle of pizza bianca stuffed with chicken cacciatora or meatballs. Da Remo, in Testaccio, open evenings only: very thin Roman pizza, fast service, canteen-like atmosphere.

Aperitivo and drinks in Rome

Freni e Frizioni — the former Trastevere garage

A former mechanical workshop a stone's throw from the Tiber, with a small square where everyone drinks standing up. Polished Italian cocktails; ranked among the best bars in Europe. It is the go-to for aperitivo, and at night, it spills out onto the steps.

Bar San Calisto — the neighborhood bar

On the square of the same name in Trastevere. Plastic chairs, neon lights, old-school prices, and a mix of students, locals, and artists. You drink a beer or a coffee while watching the city go by. Nothing fancy, that's the whole point.

Drink Kong — cocktails in Monti

Piazza di San Martino ai Monti. A dark room, neon lights, and 80s video game aesthetic, with sophisticated cocktails that earn the bar a spot in global rankings. For a drink after dinner, not for a quiet aperitivo.

Enoteca L'Antidoto — natural wine in Trastevere

A small wine bar in Trastevere, focused on natural wines and Italian producers, with simple plates to accompany them. Ask for recommendations: the team loves to let you taste.

The Janiculum Hill (Gianicolo) — the free sunset

Walk up from Trastevere via Via Garibaldi to the terrace of the Janiculum. All of Rome spreads out below, with domes and bell towers. Bring something to drink, sit on the wall, and wait for the light to fade.

Excursions and rainy day plan

Ostia Antica — Pompeii without the crowds

The port of ancient Rome, a half-hour train ride from Porta San Paolo station, near the pyramid. Entire streets, a theater, mosaics on the floor, and far fewer people than at the Forum. Plan for a half-day and closed-toe shoes.

The Via Appia Antica — by bike, on Sundays

The paved Roman road winds southward between umbrella pines, tombs, and catacombs. Rent a bike at the entrance to the park and ride at your own pace. On Sundays, part of the road is reserved for pedestrians and cyclists.

Rainy day — the Capitoline Museums

What to do in Rome when it rains? Head to the Capitoline, on the square designed by Michelangelo. The She-Wolf, the equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius, and from the underground galleries, a stunning view overlooking the Forum. Follow this with the Pantheon, where you can watch the rain fall through the oculus, and lunch at Roscioli.

A typical day in Rome

• 7:30 AM: Trevi Fountain almost empty, then a cornetto and cappuccino at the counter.
• 9:00 AM: Palatine, Forum, and Colosseum with a booked ticket.
• 1:00 PM: Lunch in Monti, then Via del Boschetto.
• 4:00 PM: The Aventine, Giardino degli Aranci, and the Knights of Malta keyhole.
• 6:30 PM: Aperitivo at Freni e Frizioni, then the Janiculum for the view.
• 9:00 PM: Dinner in Testaccio, at Felice or Da Remo.

Practical questions

When is the best time to visit Rome?

To visit Rome, April-May and October. The weather is pleasant, you can dine outside, and the days spent walking remain bearable. July and August are hot and crowded. Winter is mild and quieter, perfect for museums.

How many days for a weekend in Rome?

Three days minimum, four to relax and really get to know what to do in Rome beyond the monuments. One day for ancient Rome, one for the Vatican and the Borghese, one for the neighborhoods and dining. If you only have two days, choose: the monuments or the city.

How to get around Rome?

On foot, first and foremost: you can cross the historic center in half an hour. The metro serves the center poorly, while buses and trams complement it, notably the number 8 tram toward Trastevere. Tickets and contactless payment work throughout the network.

Bring Rome home with you

Everyone has the same photos of the Colosseum. But a T-shirt? You wear it on a Tuesday in November and Piazza di San Calisto suddenly comes back to life. That’s the idea behind wear your memories. The Beauséjour Rome collection features the city on T-shirts and tote bags, and the Dolce Vita collection extends the trip anywhere in Italy.

To go further, our ultimate guide to the dolce vita recounts the Italian art of living, and if your trip continues south, here is what to do in Positano.