What to do in Mykonos: Chora, Delos, tavernas, and season

Mykonos, everyone thinks they know it: beach clubs, yachts, partying until dawn. But there is also a tiny Cycladic island, buffeted by the meltemi wind, with lime-washed alleys, churches with blue domes, and fishermen's tavernas at the end of dirt tracks. This is the Mykonos that inspired the Beauséjour Mykonos collection. What to do in Mykonos when you’re not just here to dance? Here are our recommendations, and what you need to know about the season before you book.

Opening hours and days change according to the season: check before you go.

An honest word about the calendar. We are publishing this guide in early October, and it is the end of the season. The water is still warm, the island is emptying out, and prices are dropping. But as the month progresses, many hotels, restaurants, and clubs close, and from November to April, the majority of the places in this guide are shut. Ferries also become less frequent. For a stay in October, call or write ahead before driving twenty minutes to a taverna.

So, what to do in Mykonos in October? Everything that summer makes tedious: Delos without the July crowds, the alleys of Chora without the jostling, a table on a terrace without having booked three days in advance. The big beach club parties stop. For this guide, that wasn't the point anyway.

What to do in Mykonos: Chora, on foot

Little Venice — balconies over the water

A row of captain's houses built directly over the sea, on the west side of Chora. Waves hit under the balconies when the wind blows. It's the sunset spot: arrive an hour early to get a seat at the edge.

Kato Mili — the windmills

Just above Little Venice, the row of white windmills that were used to grind the island's grain. The photo everyone takes, yes. Head up there in the morning, with no one around, when the light hits Chora. In the evening, it’s better to watch them from Little Venice, down below, as they become silhouettes.

Panagia Paraportiani — the church with no right angles

In the Kastro district, near the old port. Five chapels joined together, whitewashed layer by layer until they resemble a sculpture. Walk around it, touch the walls, then move on. Ten minutes, but you'll remember it.

Matoyianni and Tria Pigadia — get lost on purpose

Chora was designed as a labyrinth to confuse pirates. It still works. Matoyianni street is full of shops. Around Tria Pigadia, the "three wells," you'll find the quietest alleys and lime-washed steps.

Aegean Maritime Museum — when the wind blows too hard

In a 19th-century house in Tria Pigadia. Ship models, maps, instruments, and in the garden, the original mechanism of the Armenistis lighthouse. Small, well-curated, perfect for an hour of strong winds. Information on the museum's website.

Outside Chora: the island by scooter or car

Delos — the sacred island, thirty minutes away by boat

The birthplace of Apollo, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Entire ancient streets, floor mosaics, the Terrace of the Lions, and a museum worth visiting. Boats depart from the old port of Chora. In 2026, regular connections are scheduled until the end of November, with reduced hours in the autumn. There is no shade at the site: bring a hat and water.

Ano Mera and the Panagia Tourliani monastery

The only real village in the interior. The monastery, founded in the 16th century, hides a carved wooden iconostasis. On the square, cafes where you see more locals than visitors. It is also the gateway to the northern beaches.

The Armenistis lighthouse — sunset without a DJ

Way to the northwest, at the end of a winding road. The white lighthouse, the open sea, Tinos opposite. Bring a bottle and a jacket: it blows hard up there, even in summer.

Agios Sostis and Fokos — the northern beaches

On the north side, no rows of sun loungers or music. Agios Sostis, a large sandy bay, and Fokos, further away along a track past Ano Mera. The downside: the meltemi wind. On windy days, retreat to the sheltered beaches of the south. In October, the water still holds the warmth of summer, but the showers and beach bars close one after another.

Where to eat in Mykonos

Kiki's Tavern — the most famous queue on the island

Above Agios Sostis beach. No reservations: you give your name and wait, often a long time, watching the grill smoke. Chops, catch of the day, generous salads. A seasonal taverna that closes at the end of the season: check before you head up.

Fokos Taverna — the only house on the beach

At the end of the Fokos track, via Ano Mera. Grilled octopus, homemade bread, fish, Greek wine, feet almost in the sand. You come here for the isolation as much as for the food.

Kounelas — fish in the courtyard under the fig tree

In the alleys of Chora, near the old port. A long-standing family favorite: grill open to the street, courtyard shaded by an old fig tree, bar, sea bream, swordfish, just olive oil and salt. Grilled sardines and octopus for starters.

Niko's Taverna — the old port table

Near the port, in the heart of Chora. Tzatziki, tarama and homemade eggplant dip, saganaki, lamb chops, carafe wine. No fuss, a taverna that has been running at full capacity for decades. It also operates seasonally.

Have a drink at sunset

180° Sunset Bar — a 180-degree view, no exaggeration

Perched on the hill of the old castle, above Chora. On one side the port and the windmills, on the other the sea. Walk up a few steps, settle in, and wait for the sky to turn orange. Arrive early for the front-row terrace seats.

Katerina's — the Little Venice balcony

A house in Little Venice, a cocktail bar upstairs, a restaurant downstairs. The balconies look out over the water and the windmills. The place is run by the family of Greece's first female ship captain, and the establishment has kept that family feel.

Scorpios — the sunset ritual

At Paraga, on the south coast. Low terraces facing the sea, music that rises gently at sunset. Reservations essential in season. The venue closes in autumn: in October, check the closing date before you plan anything.

A typical day in Mykonos

• 8:30 AM: coffee in Chora, then Kato Mili before the crowds.
• 10 AM: boat to Delos from the old port.
• 2 PM: late lunch at Kounelas.
• 4 PM: drive to Ano Mera, the monastery, then a swim at Agios Sostis.
• 7 PM: sunset at the Armenistis lighthouse or 180°.
• 9 PM: dinner at Niko's, then a final drink on a Little Venice balcony.

Practical questions

When is the best time to visit Mykonos?

June and September: warm sea, lively island, without the August hustle. Early October still works well, but closures begin. From November to April, the island is quiet, often windy, and most restaurants, hotels, and clubs are closed. A few tavernas and cafes remain open all year round.

How many days for a stay in Mykonos?

Three days is enough: one for Chora, one for Delos, one for the north of the island and its beaches. Add one or two more if you really want to do nothing at all.

How to get around in Mykonos?

Chora must be explored on foot, exclusively. For the rest, buses connect Chora to the southern beaches. For the north, Ano Mera, and the lighthouse, you need a scooter, quad bike, or car. Taxis are few and far between: book in advance during peak season. To arrive, take a ferry from Piraeus or Rafina, or fly via Athens. Off-season, connections are reduced: check the schedules before booking your return trip.

Take Mykonos back with you

You’ll have two hundred sunsets from Little Venice in your phone. You won't look at any of them. A T-shirt, however, comes back out in November on a grey day, and the white of Chora returns with it. That is the idea behind wear your memories. The Beauséjour Mykonos collection is available in white, cream, grey, and black, always in a boxy cut.

For another Mediterranean coast, read our guide on what to do in Positano, and our guide to la dolce vita to extend the Mediterranean summer.